Couture Blog

Living Through Jewelry's Good Old Days

They say creativity thrives during times of financial hardship. Based on my experiences over the past week, I agree with them. In the span of seven days, I’ve seen more interesting work from up-and-coming and established jewelers than I typically see in six months of trade shows, where mainstream buyers lessen the incentive to offer truly cutting-edge design.

This was hardly the case in London last week, when my brief stopover en route to Geneva happily coincided with the last few days of Coutts London Jewellery Week. It’s the type of organized, well-promoted effort that should make designers in any other part of the world emerald-green with envy. Sponsored by Coutts & Co., an investment bank that traces its roots back to 1692, when it provided banking services to buyers of its plate and jewelry supplies, the second annual week-long gathering, chock-a-block full of lectures, demonstrations and cocktail parties, is intended to raise the profile of the city’s creative talent and technical expertise in jewelry making.

My first stop was Treasure, a collection of more than 70 designers selling their wares beneath the soaring ceilings of the Flower Cellars event space in Covent Garden. There, I met Jig Pattni, a Londoner descended from a long line of Indian goldsmiths. Pattni’s work evokes not the glorious 22-karat gold traditions of his ancestors but the icons of 20th century pop culture. To wit: At Treasure, Pattni unveiled his new diamond collection, The King, in homage to Elvis Presley. It included two 18-karat gold pendants, one fashioned into a bust of the crooner, complete with a slicked back pompadour, and the other a seductive pair of blue sapphire-studded shoes.

At a neighboring showcase, Nina Koutibashvili, a London designer who hails from the republic of Georgia, couldn’t have embraced a more different aesthetic (the diversity at Treasure, and at London Jewellery Week, in general, was astonishing). The piece in her showcase that I most coveted was a large linked white gold bracelet covered by a thin layer of black stingray skin (see below), its trademark bubble pattern so beguilingly exotic.

 
Downstairs in Treasure’s sprawling cellar, JeDeCo, the Jewellery Designer’s Collective, a brand new group of more than 20 artist-jewelers, had set up shop. Guided by the principle that there’s strength in numbers, the group formed just a couple weeks ago, though their professional promotional materials and uniformly high standard of design would suggest otherwise.

By the time I returned to New York on Tuesday, capping three weeks of travel that began in Las Vegas, at jewelry market week, I was fairly sure that no other piece of jewelry would ever hold my attention again.

Yesterday, however, during a daylong blitz of various jewelry events around Manhattan, I stood corrected. At the Jewelry Information Center’s annual fine jewelry luncheon at Vermilion, a six-month-old Indian-Latin fusion restaurant in midtown, I was captivated by a $30,000 silver and gold choker necklace by Todd Reed featuring his trademark rough diamond cubes; a $19,000 carved emerald ring by Christian Tse; as well as a $175 teak wood cuff set with black onyx and deep pink quartz, the work of Zapphire by Kanupriya Khurana.

The best part of the event? Editors were asked to place their business cards in a bowl for a series of giveaways that the JIC’s Helena Krodel and Amanda Gizzi (just back from maternity leave, looking marvelous) had organized. I couldn’t believe my good fortune when my name was called. I won an 18-karat white gold Kir Royale ring, set with a 12.56-carat amethyst accented by diamonds and rubies, by Gumuchian (see below). Oddly, this was the second Gumuchian cocktail ring I have won—the first is an 18-karat yellow gold and Tahitian pearl ring that I wear every single day. I’m thrilled to be the New York jeweler’s walking, talking billboard.

Slightly dazed by my good luck, I ventured further uptown, to the Kara Ross showroom on East 60th Street, where I promptly fell in love with a cuff from Ross’s new capsule fine jewelry collection. Known for her chic use of exotic animal skins, Ross wrapped this 18-karat gold and pavé-sprinkled number in purple stingray skin (see below). I’m now officially obsessed with the material.

 

My final appointment of the day brought me to the Upper Eastside showroom of Camilla Dietz Bergeron, the estate dealer. The sight of so many vintage Deco, Retro and Seventies baubles made me feel a bit delirious. So many rings, so little time. I circled the round wooden table at the heart of the showroom like a vulture. From a classic Seaman Schepps rock crystal frog brooch dappled with cabochon emeralds, to scores of whimsical 1940s-esque gold charms (harem slippers dangling teeny tiny akoya pearls, a miniature house complete with a garage and moving car, a lamppost pointing the way to Place Vendôme), the vintage treasures on display were each more charming than the last. I was tempted to laud the “good old days” of jewelry design, such is the temptation to idolize the past at the expense of the present, but then I recalled my day and my week and realized that the good old days are now.

A Berlin Story

I flew to Berlin two days ago, essentially, to attend a dinner party. If that sounds decadent, well, you don’t know the half of it.

Last night, A. Lange & Söhne, the prestige watch brand from Germany’s Saxony region, staged one hell of a launch party. In a temporary event space located in the heart of the city’s storied Mitte district, not far from the copper domed Berlin Cathedral and the space-age TV Tower, the brand unveiled the new Lange Zeitwerk, a mechanical timepiece featuring a jumping numeral display that uniquely blends the horological sophistication for which Lange is known with an aesthetic of unambiguous modernity.

Berlin was an inspired choice of venue. No other city feels quite so progressive. Last night’s dinner is a good example. Lange flew in retailers and press from around the world, teasing the event with an invitation bearing one simple quote from Ralph Emerson: “When it is dark enough, you can see the stars.” That in no way prepared us for the meal, the details of which remained top-secret until moments before we were led single-file, hand to shoulder, into a room enveloped in complete darkness—and when I say darkness, I mean pitch-black visual deprivation the likes of which I’ve never experienced.

Blind waiters from the unsicht-Bar, a popular local restaurant where diners are seated and fed in the dark, were on-hand to serve us a three-course meal featuring risotto and ox paired with crisp German whites. The disembodied voices of my fellow diners were the only things that kept me from breaking into a panic.

I’m still not sure what the connection between the Zeitwerk (which, by the way, loosely translates to “opus of time”) and dinner in the dark is but that hardly matters. On a scale of sex appeal, the event, the city and, of course, the watch take top honors.

The Cartier Century

To be a guest at last night’s party at Cartier, where celebrities, socialites and art world luminaries feted the house’s 100 years in America, was to forget for a moment that a pandemic had just been declared, Chrysler had just filed for bankruptcy and the world was still in the throes of the great recession. Luxury is, after all, a dream and what better place to fall under its spell than the historic mansion on Fifth Avenue, the one Pierre Cartier so famously purchased with a double strand of natural pearls and $100?

It was a big deal of a night. My first hint? The pack of paparazzi waiting with baited breath beside the red carpet (which I practically sprinted down in a fit of desperation to get out of the spotlight). Inside, the crowd was so dense that I actually brushed up against Justin Timberlake as we both peered into the same showcase of vintage Cartier watches. Wearing geek-chic glasses and a crumpled blazer, he only had eyes for Jessica Biel, who looked every bit as curvaceous and appealing as she does in the movies.

Eva Mendes blew by in a silvery sheath of a dress. She was alone, feverishly pecking away at her phone, and it occurred to me that in an atmosphere like that, a star like her must feel awfully awkward without an entourage.

Martha Stewart looked elegant in an all-black ensemble, Russell Simmons was dapper and Rachel Weisz gorgeous and oh so skinny. But where on earth were Elton John and Kate Hudson?! I know they were there, but why didn’t I see them?

I know why. I was too enthralled with the jewels, the champagne and the book, Cartier I Love You, assembled by photographer Bruce Weber to celebrate the Cartier century, to notice much of anything—except, perhaps, the bejeweled ghosts of Gloria Vanderbilt and Doris Duke hovering above the room, clinking champagne flutes and smiling.

Long Live Luxury

Ever since returning from Baselworld last week, I’ve been scratching my head wondering if all the people I spoke to at the show were lying to themselves or to me when they talked about how their luxury customers were still buying mega-expensive watches and jewels, albeit more discreetly. In this souring economy? Really?

I had come to the show expecting vendors to be more candid about the state of their businesses than usual. If they were suffering, I had hoped they’d feel comfortable sharing some of those details with me—I’d hardly judge them in light of all that’s happened over the past year. If the financial titans of the universe didn’t see the meltdown coming, how could the luxury providers have predicted it?

Contrary to my expectations, what I found in Basel, and continue to find at press appointments this week, is that most luxury vendors have their story and they’re sticking to it. Albert Bensoussan, Louis Vuitton’s watch and fine jewelry director, whom I met this morning at a press preview of the newest timepieces in the iconic Tambour collection, made an especially persuasive case for the underlying health and longevity of the luxury market: “There are still a lot of buyers and they’re still investing in the future,” he said. “Asia is going well, most of Europe is going well. There’s some volatility in the US and Japan but I don’t think long-term the luxury industry will be that affected. There will be changes in styles and designs but the strength of creation and artisan work will continue.”

As evidence, Bensoussan led me to a pillar showcasing three examples of the new Tambour Mystérieuse timepiece. The watch boasts a system of transparent sapphire discs that leave no trace of the movement visible, a feat of watchmaking that required two years of research and development. Even more impressive, however, is the timepiece’s bespoke twist: “Louis Vuitton provides a thousand and one ways to claim it as one’s very own,” according to the marketing literature. In other words, clients are invited to customize the Mystérieuse in every way imaginable.

“We want people to design their future watch: the diamonds, precious stones, the finishing, the strap, initials, lucky numbers, royal crests—anything,” Bensoussan said.

The Mystérieuse will have a fixed price of around $250,000, whether a client chooses a version encrusted with diamonds or one that lacks bling entirely. That initially struck me as strange so Bensoussan explained the reasoning: “When you’re free from price, the first thing you say is, let’s cover it in diamonds, but then people start to design it how they really want it to look,” Bensoussan said. “In the last few years, the trend has been towards very pure, lowkey, not bling bling design.”

So I stand corrected. Conspicuous consumption may, in fact, be passé, but luxury—and the affluent client base that demands it—goes on.

2009 SAG Awards Red Carpet Jewelry

Jennifer Stone, 15-ear-old star of Disney's The Wizards of Waverly Place proved that it's never too young to start learning about you’re a,b, and c's as in Couture's Erica Courtney.  Jennifer accessorized her deep blue velvet gown with a cocktail ring and earrings from Erica's Tanzanite collection.  Quite a bit of carat for someone who can't even drive!  Jennifer's elders on the runway held their own, even if many were more subtle than they've been in years past.  Two supporting female actor nominees, Amy Adams and Taraju Henson decked themselves in Couture designer H. Stern.  Amy wore diamond studs with her dark-purple Giambattista Valli gown.  Taraji's complemented her Grecian white Herve Leroux dress with gold earrings and jeweled bracelet.  Taraji led the SAG pack with the most nominations, including: Best Ensemble Cast for a Movie Drama and Best Ensemble Cast for a Television Drama. 

   

 

And the Winner Is….NY Couture Designer Challenge Winners Announced

The winners of the NY Couture Jewelry Designer Challenge were announced at a media reception at the Couture Pavilion at the JANY Winter show on Monday, January 19, 2009.  Designers were challenged to transform the iconic Greek coffee cup into a unique piece of wearable jewelry, and the variety of creations on display was just a sampling of the versatility of talent within the Couture community.

In first place was Chad Allison, who recreated the iconic New York City Greek Coffee cup into a stunning 18k white gold, diamond and sapphire multi-function pendant.  Runner up was Heather Moore, whose signature whimsical style was evident in the coffee cup holder that transforms into a bangle and armband.  “This was a fun project for the studio,” enthused Heather Moore, “We enjoyed the challenge to design a piece of jewelry ‘around’ the iconic NYC coffee cup, and we decided to take the challenge 'literally' making a cuff and a bangle that translate into a handle and a cup holder. Use this and you don't burn your fingers with the hot coffee.  When you’re done with your drink, put your cup in the recycling bin, slip the pieces on your wrist and your stylin' for the day!”

“We were so happy with the response to the competition,” noted Bailey Beeken, Group Director for Nielsen Jewelry Group, “All of the pieces were stunning, and it was fun to see our talented designers tackle this unconventional, outside-the-box challenge to create such unique jewelry.”

More than 3000 votes were received by the Couture community, which includes retailers, media and designers.   Voting was done onsite as well as online in advance of the show.  All pieces were on display throughout the show and garnered much buzz and excitement throughout the show floor.  The designers who participated were Vibes, Gurhan, Monica Rich Kosann, Paola Ferro, Heather Moore and Chad Allison.  The entries will also be showcased at the Couture 2009 show at the Wynn Las Vegas this May.   

Town & Country Weddings Spring/Summer 2009

The jewel-packed Spring/Summer issue of Town & Country Weddings has finally arrived.  For upscale brides in the know this is the publication to try to get featured in.  Pictured in this edition are San Francisco mayor Gavin Newsom and his new wife, Cece Villere and Trevor Colhoun, Lindsay Weitz and Alexander More. 

In addition to the glamorous couples, Couture designers took over the pages.  Penny Preville's iconic filigree work graced models' arms on cuffs and bracelets.  Judith Ripka's diamonds sparkled from ears and fingers.  Rhonda Faber Green and Jude Francis offered a contemporary take on the wedding band.  NY Couture Designer Challenge participant Chad Allison's 18k rose gold Legacy band is perfect for any bride looking for extravagance.  There is no such thing as a recession when it comes to weddings!

Coffee Art

The NY Couture Jewelry Designer Challenge is fast approaching its deadline.  This year's contest is to take the iconic New York City Greek coffee cup and turn it into a piece of wearable jewelry. 

Coffee-related art is an extensive subject, baristas across the world compete to create their own trademark.  See if you have what it takes!

Coffee Cup Art

Jewelry Shines at the Golden Globes

While basic blacks, greys and purples kept the red carpet more subdued at Sunday's Golden Globes, chandelier earrings and diamonds added some much needed razzle dazzle. Actress Isla Fisher wore Couture designer Yvel earrings and bracelets on the red carpet to complement her Carlos Miele asymmetrical frock. Nominee Marisa Tomei went against the minimalism trend by mixing H.Stern necklaces with Couture designer Sevan’s one-of-a-kind ‘Zeus’ (carved citrine and diamonds set in white/rose gold) necklace and a hand-carved quartz and diamond ring.  Other attendees were notable for their lack of jewelry, choosing to flaunt naked collarbones and wrists.  It will be interesting to see if this trends continues at the Academy Awards.

Movado Founder Passes

Gedalio Grinberg passed away Sunday, January 4^th in New York at the age of 77.  Grinberg was the founder and chairman of Movado Group Inc.  Born in Cuba, he left the country for America after Castro took power in 1960.  He started in the watch business in Florida under the name North American Watch Co. which he later changed to Movado.  He later moved the company to New Jersey and created a business modeled after Cadillac.  He made the watch a status symbol.  Grinberg's innovative thinking extended to his private life; he was good friends with several prolific artists and active with many philanthropic organizations.  He is survived by son, Efraim who is CEO and chairman of Movado; his wife, Sonia; son, Alex; daughter, Miriam Phalen, and six grandchildren.  He will be sorely missed by the jewelry industry.